British Columbia Destinations

Vancouver island is centre of First Nations culture

By Heather Andrews Miller

Photo from Tourism B.C.

Vancouver Island has many opportunities for visitors to find entertainment, and one of the most meaningful and enjoyable is enriching their lives with First Nations culture.
Many of the one million Canadians of First Nation, Métis or Inuit heritage are combining traditional lifestyles with contemporary life and they are willing and anxious to share with others. Native culture is particularly strong in some Vancouver Island communities.
In Campbell River, located 1.5 hours north of Nanaimo, is Gilda’s House of Treasures Theatre. This structure is designed to allow visitors to experience the cultural treasures of the Laichwiltach people. The Laichwiltach are the southernmost of the Kwak'wala speaking people, who enjoyed possession of the rich salmon fishing grounds and the strategic trading position offered by the narrow Discovery Passage.
Performances of traditional dances are held regularly here and a 3,300-square-foot gallery and gift shop contains the artwork of local people, including many carvings, clothing items, paintings and books for people who wish to find out more about the culture.
Campbell River itself is a modern city of 30,000 people, but nature is never far away. Views of Quadra Island and the rugged Coast Mountain range of mainland British Columbia are breathtaking and visitors often see wildlife such as eagles and whale. The salmon fishing is superb here as well.
The Cape Mudge lighthouse blinks warnings to seafaring passers-by, as yachts, fish boats, tugs, freighters, and enormous Alaska-bound cruise ships line up to navigate the tricky waters of Seymour Narrows.
Campbell River is the jump-off point for eco-adventure tours and activities such as salmon barbecues, sightseeing, nature photography and whale and grizzly bear viewing.
Locally-owned and operated First Nations wildlife and cultural tour operators ensure the Aboriginal people of the area are well represented in the tourist activities.
Alert Bay is on a smaller island just off the northern end of Vancouver Island. It is reached by ferry from Port McNeill, an eight-hour drive north of Victoria.
The U'Mista Cultural Centre at Alert Bay portrays the heritage of the Kwakwaka'wakw people. Permanent exhibits include in-depth description of the traditional ethno biology of the people as well as historical and contemporary information. Exhibits, films and dance performances provide visitors with information and entertainment.
A ceremonial big house displays the potlatch collection, including regalia such as masks and copper implements. These artefacts were confiscated by the government in 1922 when the potlatch – a ceremony involving a feast and distribution of gifts – was outlawed, but were returned in 1980.
The masks in the collection, produced by local carvers, tend to leave visitors in awe. Some of the masks are mournful: painted white faces and black eyebrows, with red streaks down the cheeks, and a red mouth. A whale figure attached to a painted headdress, consisting of six wooden pieces, leaves the viewer pondering why the creature is missing its tail. Other carvings include a wooden duck, carved from one piece of wood and painted dark green with black pupils and eyebrows. The craftsmanship is superb in all pieces and much can be learned about the culture of the people.
In the southeast corner of Vancouver Island, the Quw'utsun' Cultural Centre is located near Duncan. Twenty years ago the Cowichan (or Quw'utsun') people were the largest Aboriginal band in British Columbia, with over 3,900 members embarked on a project to display their culture and history to the world.
The resulting cultural centre, owned and operated by Cowichan tribes , is now a world-class destination. The focus is on the economic development of the Cowichan people, including raising the profile of local artisans. Its goal is fostering and promoting pride in their culture and offering a memorable cultural experience.
Located on six acres of beautifully-landscaped grounds along the banks of the Cowichan River, the centre is just minutes from downtown Duncan. Visitors can watch knitters and carvers at work as well as participate in cultural interpretive tours. The Cowichan Tzinquaw Dancers perform songs and dances passed down from many generations, dressed in traditional regalia featuring traditional drumming and singing.

The Riverwalk Café features authentic Native cuisine, with a menu using traditional ingredients such as salmon, venison, buffalo, and halibut. Each dish is prepared individually and served with a complimentary basket of freshly-baked Native breads and guests are seated in a relaxing atmosphere on a patio along the beautiful Cowichan River.
First Nations culture emphasizes an incredible connectedness to the land and is not the transitory character that typifies most recent North American cultures. The rare permanence of place that has endured for hundreds of generations is sure to provide a holiday to be remembered for those who spend some time immersing themselves in the traditional ways of the past.