British Columbia Destinations

West coast of Vancouver Island is a hidden treasure

By Melody Archer

Photo's by Melody Archer

Canada is full of hidden treasures and “best kept secrets.”

The west coast of Vancouver Island is one of those places where the locals are willing to share with visitors but hope it doesn’t become too well known.

People in the know bring their families here not only for whale watching excursions, flight-seeing tours, fishing charters (salmon and halibut), fully guided kayaking tours or hiking the Pacific Rim Trail and just hanging out on Long Beach.

The major communities in the area are Tofino and Ucluelet.

Tofino has a population of 1,286 and it really is small town friendly. It is evident as soon as you talk to one of the townspeople that they love where they have chosen to live, in fact they are passionate about it! Tofino is at the centre of Clayoquot Sound which was recently designated as B.C.’s first UN Biosphere Reserve.

Nearby is the town of Ucluelet, pronounced “Yew-kloo-let,” or nicknamed “Ukee.” The name Ucluelet means “safe harbour.” Along with the fishing boats and yachts in the harbour you will also see many picnic areas along the waterfront where the views of the ocean are unequalled.

The wildlife is also a drawing card and the people who live here have a healthy respect for their surroundings. There are deer in abundance, some seem to be posing as lawn ornaments – they can be seen on almost every street. Signs at the beginning of the Pacific Rim Trail warn that you are also in cougar territory.

There are many ways to get to Tofino and Ucluelet. The Tofino Bus is a year-round daily express service with starting points in Vancouver, Victoria or Nanaimo that lets you relax and enjoy the views.

Once in Tofino or Ucluelet you can take the beach bus, the local shuttle service that covers all of the sights such as Long Beach, Amphitrite Lighthouse, Pacific Rim National Park, the Rainforest Trail and much more.

I travelled there by car from Vancouver Island’s Comox Valley this past August, making several interesting stops along the way. One such side trip was to the Old Country Market, just off the highway in the town of Coombs. The market is full of products and crafts from all over the world, as well as local produce, but the main attraction are the goats grazing on its rooftop. There are also many other interesting shops around the market.

My next stop on this route to Ucluelet and Tofino was Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Provincial Park with its old growth forest of Douglas firs and western red cedars, some as old as 800 years and with a circumference of nine metres.

The last stop on this three-hour journey was Long Beach. Long Beach is a series of beaches that stretches for 25 kilometres between Ucluelet and Tofino. I highly recommend driving this route for its interesting scenery and stops.

Accommodations in the area are wide and varied, from hostels to the finest of resorts. The Pacific Sands Beach Resort is located on a mile of sandy beach on Cox Bay with private suites and villas fully equipped with kitchenettes, fireplaces and spectacular views of the ocean (1-800-565-2322).

Also on Cox Bay, between Clayoquot Sound and Pacific Rim National, Park is the Long Beach Lodge Resort (250-725-2442), which is listed among the top three resorts in Canada by Conde Nast Traveller magazine’s Readers Choice Awards.

Last but not least is the Wickaninnish Inn (1-800-333-4604) located on the waterfront at Chesterman Beach in Tofino. The “Wick,” as it is affectionately known, was chosen as Canada’s second top resort in the Conde Nast Traveller Magazine’s Readers Choice Awards.

Whale-watching fans should plan to be here in March for the Pacific Rim Whale Festival, which sees 20,000 gray whales on their migration north to Alaska within five kilometres of the shoreline.

Tofino and Ucluelet are popular surfer’s enclaves. For those who might like to try their hand at surfing there are lessons available year round and beginners are welcome.

The surfing is considered at its best between January and mid-March when the winter storms are hitting the coast. Surfers come from all over the world to catch the 20-foot waves.

Storm watchers of all ages also come to see the spectacular performances of nature. Many of the top hotels and inns have storm watching specials on during this time. The safest locations for storm watching out in the open are the cliff tops. There are warnings to stay off of the rocks along the beaches and not to turn your back on the ocean. If you prefer, there are an abundance of seaside restaurants, cafés and inns from which you can view the storms in warmth and safety.

The people of Ucluelet and Tofino are proud of what they have to offer visitors to their region. There are a variety of indoor and outdoor activities as well as local shops and galleries to peruse as during your stay.