British Columbia Destinations

From ghosts to gourmet in alluring Victoria

By Maureen Licata

Photos courtesy of Tourism Victoria

A cool breeze blows through the group assembled in Bastion Square, but it’s more than the wind that makes them shiver. “Victoria is believed to be the most haunted city in British Columbia,” says John Adams, historian and tour guide for Ghostly Walks.

Adams points to the Maritime Museum of British Columbia, once the city’s courthouse, and notes that “the hanging judge” Matthew Baillie Begbie presided over many trials here. Apparently, he’s reluctant to leave his post. “Some people hear a gavel hitting a bench, and merchandise occasionally floats around the gift shop,” Adams tells the slightly spooked crowd.

Ghost hunting is a popular pastime in the weeks before Halloween. While visitors may opt to search for spirits on Government Street in Old Town or in Chinatown’s Fan Tan Alley, they’ll likely feel more secure when accompanied by a guide like Adams. His 90-minute Ghostly Walks comb the haunted alleys and courtyards of the city’s downtown core during September and October, as part of the Ghosts of Victoria Festival.

And more spine-tingling adventures are on tap. Ghost Bus Tours, offered by the Old Cemeteries Society from October 19 to 29, take the unflinching on a two-hour coach ride through Victoria’s spookiest neighbourhoods. Spirits are likely to enjoy the spotlight during tours of Hatley Castle – one of two “castles” in Victoria, the other being Craigdarroch Castle. One member of the family of former owners, James Dunsmuir Jr., may rise out of the lake in Hatley Castle’s Japanese Garden. The rich reds, yellows and oranges of the foliage provide a glowing backdrop for the eerie tales of the tour leaders.

Though ghosts may roam freely throughout the year, fall is a great time to search for them in the provincial capital. More relaxed and slightly cooler, the season is ideal for enjoying Victoria’s bounty. The city’s lofty deciduous trees are ablaze with the fiery colours of autumn, contrasting with the constancy of the evergreens. Indian summer often courses through September and early October, providing the perfect backdrop to a wealth of activities.

Created as a Hudson Bay Company fort in 1843, Victoria has matured gracefully while retaining its solid roots in the past. With the shimmering water of the Inner Harbour as a centrepiece, the downtown core features entertaining street side entertainment, historical buildings, bustling sidewalk cafes, art galleries and specialty stores.

This fall don't miss the Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition. The travelling exhibition at the Royal British Columbia Museum until October 14 features more than 280 artifacts recovered from Titanic’s undersea resting place.

Even in the urban setting, you’re never far from the rugged West Coast environment. Take a walk along the magnificent Dallas Road walkway and view the snow-dusted Olympic Mountains across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. When storms rage, wind drives the roiling ocean into a white-capped frenzy. Or pick a calm evening to stroll along the Inner Harbour. The Legislative Buildings, outlined in lights, will grab your attention. Breathe deeply when you’re by the sea. The air is delivered fresh and clean right off the Pacific Ocean.

If golf is your game, prepare yourself to be challenged year-round on Victoria’s championship links, featuring greens nestled in the midst of natural beauty. Some local courses feature ocean views while others boast a forested setting. After the 19th hole, board a whale-watching vessel and get ready to be dazzled by pods of killer whales just metres away from you.

The autumn weather is delightful in Victoria, the sights are stellar, and the food is glorious. With the longest growing season in Canada, local fare ranks among the world’s best. And there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy it, since Victoria boasts the second highest number of restaurant seats per capita in North America, just behind San Francisco.

The city’s cuisine is racking up kudos from food lovers around the world. Innovative chefs take local farm products, freshly caught seafood and year-round fresh vegetables to create palate-pleasing West Coast gourmet dishes.

In Victoria, the Island Chefs’ Collaborative (ICC) is committed to locally grown and high quality ingredients. Members of the group support growers and producers who utilize sustainable farming practices and prepare award-winning dishes from their products. Choose local wines or ciders to complement your meal.

Agritourism in the region spotlights the local bounty. Visit farms and wineries on the Saanich Peninsula and in the nearby Cowichan Valley and enjoy meals and beverages on the land that produced them. Sample the output of wineries, cideries and a meadery, the region's organic produce, artisan cheeses and locally-produced gourmet foods. Pick up a self-guided map or hook up with a guided tour.

Thirsty for a great beer? Victoria’s leading-edge microbreweries turn out barrels of one-of-a-kind malty creations. Meet the brewmasters and sample their unique and award-winning craft. Follow the “Ale Trail” and visit one or all of the breweries; many are just walking distance from downtown heritage buildings.

After all that, you may be ready for another attempt at tracking down ghosts in the heart of historic Victoria. For reservations and information call Tourism Victoria at 1-800-663-3883 or see www.tourismvictoria.com.