Canadian Destinations

Nova Scotia visitors will be pleasantly surprised

by Melody Archer

Yes, there are lighthouses and fishing villages just as pictured on the Nova Scotia postcards and calendars. What else would you expect from a province whose license plates read “Canada's Ocean Playground”?

However, if you hail from this Canadian province, you already know there is so much more to Nova Scotia than is usually depicted. Having spent the first 20 years of my life there, I have a few observations I would like to share.

Visitors to Nova Scotia will encounter friendly “down home” hospitality. People greet one another whether or not they are acquainted and during the summer heat more often than not the greeting will be “Hot enough for ya?” and a warm smile.

There is much to see in and around Halifax, the provincial capital. For a daytime excursion in Halifax, the Citadel Hill historic site is an interesting place to visit. If you're there over the noon hour though, cover your ears, as soldiers dressed in 19th century uniforms fire off a cannon, which can be deafening!

If you happen to be in the city when the Tall Ships arrive from many different countries for the Parade of Sail, you are in for a treat! It is an all-day event that sees the Halifax Harbour area fill with people from all over the world.

This would be an excellent time to explore the waterfront Historic Properties district with its many shops, cafes and Saturday farmers’ market. At night the clubs come alive with activity and a variety of musical entertainment.

South of Halifax, Peggy’s Cove is a must see. The scenery is spectacular, and includes a famous lighthouse. If you dare to make your way across the rocky shoreline you can take close-up photos of waves crashing against huge boulders.

There are a couple of nice little stores here and a restaurant or two. One of the highlights for me is a work of art – a carving done on the side of a boulder that represents the men who have died at sea.

Peggy’s Cove is on the Lighthouse Route that follows Nova Scotia’s South Shore. It would be worthwhile to rent a car and drive along the coast, through picturesque communities including Mahone Bay, Lunenberg and Shelburne. There are 20 lighthouses along this route.

Beautiful Mahone Bay is one of my favourite towns in which to shop, dine or just tour around. In Lunenburg, why not tour the Atlantic Fisheries Museum or the historic schooner Bluenose II, which is usually in the harbour.

Another of the prettiest areas of the province is the Annapolis Valley. The many small towns in the valley feature rich cultural heritage, beautiful scenery and charming stores, restaurants and bed and breakfasts – each has something special to offer its visitors.

One of them is Hantsport, a former shipbuilding town founded in the 1700s. The marine museum here is worth checking out. Why not stop at the R & G Family Restaurant and have a meal while enjoying the view of the Avon River and Cape Blomidon.

Another beautiful area of Nova Scotia is the Cape Breton region, which has a rich Gaelic Celtic heritage. The scenery along the Cape Breton coastline is breathtaking.

If you are looking for history, Louisburg is the place to see. This 18th century fortress is the site of historical re-enactments, complete with real cannon fire. You may also want to check out the Gaelic College of Celtic Arts and Crafts where you could learn how to step dance.

Nova Scotia is the site of many activities in all four seasons of the year, but the greatest number and variety take place during the summer.

In summer, visitors can take advantage of miles and miles of beautiful beaches. Queensland Beach and White Point Beach are a couple of notable examples along the South Shore. There are also certain beaches where the surfing is pretty good too.

People who enjoy physical adventures might try riding the tidal bore at Shubenacadie on a rubber raft! Hikers can take the excellent woodland trail near Scott’s Bay that takes you all the way out to Cape Split, a spectacular cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Between Mahone Bay and Lunenberg is one of Nova Scotia’s many great golf courses, this one with extensive ocean frontage.

The summer also boasts a variety of events such as the Cherry Carnival, Strawberry Festival, Wooden Boat Festival and music festivals including the Atlantic Jazz Festival in Halifax. Antigonish is the site of the annual Highland Games, which will be held July 18 to 20 in 2008. The ever-popular Royal Nova Scotia International Military Tattoo takes place July 1 to 8, 2008.

The community of Chester hosts an annual sailing regatta during the second week of July. In October there is also the annual Pumpkin Regatta in Windsor, during which brave souls paddle across the lake in hollowed-out pumpkins weighing up to 300 pounds – truly a unique sight!

If you are going to be in Chester, plan to visit the Captain’s Table, one of my favourite places to dine. You must book at least two weeks in advance but it is well worth the effort for dishes such as their lobster eclair.

Nova Scotia is rich with delectable cuisine, particularly seafood. The Boondocks in Eastern Passage is a more casual place to dine but very good, and nearby are a waterfront boardwalk and little shops to check out.

When you visit Nova Scotia, if someone should happen to invite you to a ceilidh, you don't want to miss it. Pronounced kay-lee, this is a wonderful gathering (sometimes referred to as a kitchen party) where friends, family and neighbours combine their talents for an evening of music, laughter and fun!

Even if you don't sing or play an instrument, you are still welcome to join in. Your hostess may pass you a couple of spoons with simple instructions on how to play them.

I've barely skimmed the surface of all that there is to see and do in this beautiful province. If not Canada's best kept secret, it is still definitely full of pleasant surprises!