United States Destinations

Maui visit provides a taste of paradise

By Ruby Haines-Patterson

Welcome to Maui! Leis were placed around our necks. We could feel the steamy humid heat of Hawaii and the warmth of the welcome.

Our friends were revisiting Maui and we had decided to join them. It was our first time on Maui, but we’re sure it won’t be our last.

As we drove from the airport, where we were met by our friends, we saw sugar cane blowing in the wind and fields of pineapples. Tropical flowers bloomed everywhere. Cloud covered the tops of the volcanoes. We could see the ocean, hear waves rolling in on beautiful sandy beaches and see boats sailing in the distance.

Maui was named by the original Hawaiians after a mythological demigod who pulled it from the sea and made it his home. At 727 square miles, it is the second largest island of the Hawaiian chain. It has also been called the best – and the islanders call it paradise. We had rented a condo near the Kamaole Beach III. The view was of palm trees, bougainvillea, plumeria, and other tropical flowers and trees.

In the morning, the sound of birds outside was deafening. There were many doves, partridge-like birds and others. The partridges would sit on the railing and chatter endlessly. And there were little geckos that crawl up and down our balcony.

During the next two weeks, we walked on the beaches, swam in the pool, enjoyed a luau, toured the aquarium, drove the road to Hana and to Haleakala Park, explored Lahaina, attended the Seniors Fall Fair, sailed on a sunset cruise and visited the Sugar Museum.

Each morning we walked on the beach before it got too hot. With the palm trees and flowers, it was very inviting. Feeling the sand between our toes was heavenly and we also explored the tide pools.

Some areas had walking paths along the ocean. We saw people walking, jogging, sunbathing, surfing, snorkelling, fishing and just relaxing.

One day, while driving south to Wailea, we passed bicyclists and learned the Xterra World Championship was going on. This race takes place every October and attracts some of the world’s finest triathletes. It features a 1.5-kilometre ocean swim, 30-kilometre mountain bike ride and 11-kilometre off-road run.

We drove on until there was only crushed lava on both sides of the road – the site of the last lava flow on Maui in 1790 – and then turned around. We drove past golf courses and visited Big Beach. Surfers were trying to catch the big waves; we just enjoyed the sun and beach along with a few other tourists.

We later stopped to browse at The Shops of Wailea. There are two open-air levels with fountains and spacious plazas, lots of shops, art galleries and restaurants, with live entertainment provided on Wednesday evening. Our husbands had to drag my friend and me away.

The luau we attended was an enjoyable experience. When we arrived, musicians were playing and we were greeted with leis of shells and tropical drinks.

A pig wrapped in banana and ti-leaves had been cooked all day in an underground oven. The buffet feast included pig, poi and other delicacies. After dinner we were entertained with traditional dances and music.

The sounds of the ocean mingled with the music and laughter of the guests. Palm trees were swaying in the tropical breezes and fragrance from exotic flowers filled the air. It was truly an enchanted evening under the stars!

On another day we visited the Maui Ocean Center, a world-class facility. All the marine life – corals, fish and plants – is from Hawaii, and environment duplicates their surroundings. The Open Ocean exhibit is 20 feet deep, with 750,000 gallons of water and about 2,000 fish.

The finale was our walk through a 54-foot clear-acrylic tunnel with sharks, rays and hundreds of other fish all around us. It was unbelievable. This is definitely a must-see-again attraction.

The road to Hana is narrow and winding, with 600 curves and 54 one-lane bridges. It is a full day’s drive through a beautiful, tropical rain forest with waterfalls, ravines and lush vegetation. There are bamboo, guava, papaya, rainbow eucalyptus, Norfolk pine, candlenut, Cook pines, kakunha and other large flowering trees.

Along the way there are a number of side trips one can take to explore quiet villages, taro fields, botanical gardens and nurseries alive with tropical flowers.

In Hana we visited the General Store and had an excellent lunch at the hotel.

Then we went on to Haleakala National Park. The drive to the top of the volcano was very dramatic. The fog was thick; the road climbs up a series of switchbacks and there was road construction too.

Many times we were above the clouds as we proceeded up to the park headquarters at 7,000 feet. Here we saw the beautiful silversword plants. We also drove further up to the viewpoints at 10,023 feet.

The park features 48 kilometres of trails through redwood forests and across lava rock, and three campgrounds. Tourists can drive up or take tours to see the dramatic sunrise at 5 a.m., or a day trip, or bike down 38 miles.

Also enjoyable was attending the 32nd Annual Maui County Senior Fair. While being entertained by talented seniors and locals, we gained an appreciation of the diverse multi-cultural makeup of the immigrants who came and settled in Maui. They danced and sang with great enthusiasm. We sampled food at the booths and explored the many craft tables.

Lahaina, on the northwest coast of the island, was the whaling capital of the mid-Pacific. Whales are now protected and come from the Arctic to mate and bear their young in the warm waters. They can be seen from December to April.

Lahaina’s shopping area contains more than 50 shops, restaurants and art galleries. The Banyan Tree marks the center of town. Planted in 1873, it is the largest on the islands and spreads over two-thirds of an acre. A walking tour map of historic sites can be obtained from the hotels.

A highlight of our vacation was attending the production of Ulalena in Lahaina. It is a unique and compelling story that begins with the mythic creation of the islands and rolls through successive waves of voyagers who have found their way to Hawaii.

A multi-million dollar, state-of-the art theatre was built for this production, which has received “Best Show” and “Best Attraction” awards from the Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau.

We went to Lahaina again for the Halloween celebration. Called the Mardi Gras of the Pacific, it attracts thousands of locals and tourists.

The party begins with a family parade with great costumes, then continues with live music, food and booths set up all around and under the giant Banyan Tree.

The Sugar Museum illustrates the history of sugar cane growing and production in Hawaii. There are photos and exhibits showing the multi-ethnic nature of plantation communities and life, and a scale model of a worker’s camp house.

There are many more things to do and see in Maui. We left wistfully, with four boxes of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts, an understanding of why it is called paradise and a determination to return.

Ruby Haines-Patterson is a Calgary-based freelance writer.