United States Destinations

Big Mountain: winter wonderland of Whitefish, Montana

By Toni Dabbs

Photo by Toni Dabbs

Big Mountain offers big value for people who like to play in the snow. Located about a 20-minute drive northeast of Whitefish, Montana (which in turn is located about a 20-minute drive northeast of Glacier Park International Airport), Big Mountain is easily accessible to those who want a change of place for their winter fun.

A few hearty locals had been skiing on Big Mountain since the 1930s, when it was referred to as the Hell-Roaring Ski Course. But it became an official resort in 1947, when a couple of entrepreneurs pooled their resources to buy several acres on the south side of the mountain (at US$1 per acre), a rope tow and a T-bar.

Today, more than 90 marked trails fan out from the attractive village, which is big enough to provide the necessary amenities but small enough to be negotiable on foot. In between are stands of snow-laden Engelmann spruce and Douglas fir, part of the Flathead National Forest. Trees at higher elevations are bent from their burdens and completely encased to form snowghosts.

With an average annual snowfall of 300 inches (762 centimetres), Big Mountain boasts a season that usually spans from late November to mid-April. Downhill skiing remains the most popular activity, with snowboarding a close second. Riders have free rein on the mountain's 3,000 skiable acres (1,200 hectares), including a snowboard park with quarter-pipes, wave boxes, side walls, hits, jumps and rolls. An adult day pass for the resort's 14 lifts is priced at US$49 (US$39 for seniors aged 65 to 79 years, and free for those 80-plus).

But there is much more to do.

Guided snowcat skiing gives strong intermediate and advanced participants access to pristine wilderness terrain, considered some of the best powder in the Rockies. Cost of a day tour (including four to 10 runs) is US$300 per person with a day lift ticket.

For cross-country enthusiasts, Big Mountain Nordic Center has six miles of well-maintained trails with both diagonal stride and skate skiing lanes. The trails, which follow the natural contour of the land, are suitable for all skiing abilities. Tickets cost US$5.

Visitors can explore the north face of the mountain on snowmobiles, where a variety of trails offer views of Glacier National Park and the Canadian Rockies. Guided half-day tours are priced at US$150 per person.

For people who prefer a quieter ride, a dog sled excursion can be arranged for US$75 each. Passengers snugly wrapped in elk hides get to relax and enjoy the view, as eight to 12 eager dogs and an experienced musher do all the work. At times the sleds reach speeds of 24 kilometres per hour, traveling through snow blanketed glades and winding along narrow trails with icy branches arching overhead.

With the base village and the nearby town of Whitefish from which to choose, visitors to Big Mountain have a good selection of meals and accommodations.

The Hellroaring Saloon located in the slopeside 1949 Chalet, originally a lodge but now the mountain's administrative center, is a favorite spot to grab a bite between runs. It specializes in soups, burgers and dynamite nachos. Cafe Kandahar at the mountain's Kandahar Lodge and The Grill at Grouse Mountain Lodge in town both offer fine dining in tasteful surroundings.

Other lodges, such as the Alpinglow Inn on the mountain, provide pleasant rooms at reasonable rates. Visitors who want something different, though, might check into Good Medicine Lodge in Whitefish or the Edelweiss Condominiums on Big Mountain.

Named one of America's “10 Top Romantic Inns” by Travel America magazine, Good Medicine Lodge operates as a bed-and-breakfast, where guests are made to feel right at home. The cedar timber structure has nine individually furnished guest rooms, each with a private bath, plus an outdoor hot tub, a ski room and a guest laundry.

Edelweiss Condominiums comprise 50 deluxe accommodations located in the mountain village. Each has a fully-equipped kitchen, fireplace, television and laundry facilities, as well as access to an indoor swimming pool and hot tub.

Visitors who would rather let someone else drive the steep switchbacks between Big Mountain and Whitefish can take the SNOW (Shuttle Network of Whitefish) bus. Regularly scheduled service is available between 7 a.m. and 10 p.m.

Downtown Whitefish is essentially three blocks of Central Avenue with covered sidewalks fronting an assortment of wood and brick buildings, most dating from the late 19th and early 20th century.

At one end is the Whitefish Depot, built by the now defunct Great Northern Railway and still used by Burlington Northern Railroad and Amtrak. The depot serves two passenger trains each day and as many as 40 freight trains. It also houses a museum filled with photographs and artifacts from the early days of Whitefish, its skiing history and the railroad.

At the other end of downtown are the First Presbyterian Church built in 1921, a beige brick structure with pretty stained glass windows, and the Frank Lloyd Wright building, one of the few buildings in Montana designed by the architect and possibly one of his last.

In between are other heritage buildings and more recent structures housing standard shops and services along with some fine boutiques and galleries, making Whitefish well worth a browse. Information to help plan a visit to Whitefish and Big Mountain is available from: Big Mountain Ski and Summer Resort, PO Box 1400, Whitefish MT 59937, 800-858-4157 or 406-862-2900, www.Big-mountain.com; and Whitefish Chamber of Commerce, 520 East Second Street, Whitefish MT 59937, 877-862-3548 or 406-862-3501, www.whitefishchamber.com.

INFO TO GO:

• Grouse Mountain Lodge (2 Fairway Drive, Whitefish MT 59937, 800-321-8822 or 406-862-3000, www.grousemountainlodge.com) is a full-service four-season resort adjacent to the 36-hole Whitefish Lake Golf Course. Its refined rustic style is well suited to its natural setting.

• Kandahar: The Lodge at Big Mountain (PO Box 278, Whitefish MT 59937, 800-862-6094 or 406-862-6098, www.kandaharlodge.com) is a casually elegant ski-to-door hotel, with a microwave and refrigerator in each room. It operates a Wellness Center offering massage therapy, exercise room, outdoor heated pool, sauna and hot tub.

• Buffalo Cafe (514 Third Street, Whitefish MT 59937, 406-862-2833) has been a favourite morning hangout of Whitefish residents for more than two decades. Open for breakfast and lunch, it specializes in fresh coffee and egg dishes.

• The Great Northern Brewing Company (2 Central Avenue, Whitefish MT 59937, 406-863-1000) produces Black Star Premium Lager and other hand-crafted microbrews, such as the seasonal Wheatfish Hefeweizen and Snow Ghost Special Edition. The second-floor tasting room has limited hours, so phone first to confirm that it’s open.

• Tupelo Grille (17 Central Avenue, Whitefish MT 59937, 406-862-6136) is considered one of the top restaurants in the Flathead Valley and Northwest Montana. It serves fresh seafood, steaks and pasta in a relaxed atmosphere and features an award winning wine list.