International Destinations

Greece putting on its best face for the Olympics

By Nicholas Spillios

It’s the land of the gods and the birthplace of the Olympic Games. Whatever the time of year, Greece is a wonder to visit, but never more than this summer when the Olympics return to Athens.

The games taking place this fall in Athens will include 28 sports taking place in 38 venues. That’s a lot, and spectator fatigue could quickly set in. Fortunately, visitors will also be able to explore some of the wonders of this ancient city.

When I visited Athens last autumn I was struck by the extent of construction and by the sheer energythe Greeks were putting into preparations for the event. They have been eagerly awaiting this since the first modern Olympics were held in Athens in 1896, and they are intent on being at their best for the world.

Aside from the game sites, one major project has been the extension of the subway system, the hub of which is the station at Syntagma Square in the centre of downtown Athens. It is extending across Athens from Syntagma Square located in the centre of downtown Athens.

The station is a state-of-the-art conception, and includes a range of boutiques. Artifacts uncovered in excavating are displayed at suitable points, all spotlessly clean.

Not far from the Syntagma Square station is the newly renovated Benaki Museum, which houses a grand array of art, artifacts and jewellery extending from Neolithic times to the present. You can follow the course of history by moving from level to level.

A more concentrated and easier to manage museum is the Cyclades Museum, just around the corner. It houses artifacts, mainly from Cyclades Islands, that are up to 5,000 years old. Of course, there are other museums in central Athens but after an exhausting visit to the games, you may with to concentrate on the Syntagma area.

Try to catch the changing of the guard in front of the Parliament Buildings facing the square. The guards parading by with rifles over their shoulders will be dressed in their traditional skirted “evzone” costumes.
Walk a few steps over to Kolonaki Square, where you will encounter some of the more upscale shopping boutiques in Athens. Browse and drool.

You can also head over to the Plaka, old Athens. Here tourists congregate and the shopping is more of the cheap souvenir variety - just what some of us expect to find in our travels to a foreign land.

For me, a visit to Athens is never complete unless I partake of loukoumades - hole-less doughnuts served with honey and chopped nuts. My favourite shop that sells these delights is located between Syntagma Square and Omonia Square. Ask the locals and they will direct you.

In fact, the Greeks are a most hospitable people who love to give directions, particularly when they hear a “kali mera,” good morning, or the standard “yassou,” good life, in parting.

This brings us to another aspect of Greek culture - body language. If you ask a question and the response is a raised head accompanied by “Ohi,” that is an emphatic “no.”

Another thing to keep in mind is that the Greeks have been waiting for the return of the marble relief sculptures from the Parthenon that are now in the British Museum, hopefully during the Olympics. You will endear yourself to them if you refer to these as the “Parthenon Marbles” rather than the “Elgin Marbles.” They are most sensitive about this politically charged issue and appreciate everyone’s support.

If you are planning to use the bus system, don’t forget, as I did several times, to purchase tickets beforehand from kiosk vendors. Otherwise you may be fined on the bus for attempting to avoid payment. Fortunately a friend alerted me to this and I had my ticket when I was asked for it by the bus inspector.

Of course, there is more to Greece than Athens. Perhaps you might visit the islands to take in some of the most perfect beaches and clearest blue water in the world. My wife Charlotte and I avoid the more popular islands such as Rhodes and Santorini. Our favourite island, frequented mainly by locals, is Spetses. It is more out of the way and has less of the hustle and bustle of most island centres.

You could also go north to Thessaloniki (Salonika), the second city of the old Byzantine empire. The city is poised between east and west - traces of the Turkish Ottoman Empire linger here.

Most activity is centred along the waterfront. Here stands the White Tower, which houses an outstanding museum.

The Kentriki Agora, central market, is its own world of sights and smells, where you’ll encounter hanging carcasses, barrels of Kalamata olives and more. If you haven’t tasted Greek yogurt, this is a good place to do it. The Greeks swear that by eating it you can add years to your life.

Tsimiskis Street is the city’s Fifth Avenue, where establishments selling some of the most exclusive merchandise can be found.

As for souvenirs, when I am visiting Thessaloniki, my friends expect me to bring them back lukumia (Turkish delight). The city is famous for this delicacy. To get the authentic product, ask to be taken to one of the factories, which are not far from the centre.

When it is time to head home, your flight will no doubt depart from the newly opened airport in Athens. Arriving early for your flight will give you the opportunity to spend some time in the airport shops. This may be a good place to buy Olympic souvenirs, as their price is being monitored by the government. Then bid “yassou” to the land of the gods.