International Destinations

Making the most of London in five days

By Nicholas Spillios

You could say we landed in London with a senior bang.

My wife Charlotte and I arrived at Heathrow Airport recently for a five-day stay in the capital of the United Kingdom. Learning that the taxi fare from the airport to central London was the equivalent of about $100, we opted instead to take the Underground, also known as the Tube.

Alas, while hauling my suitcase, along with other bags, down a station escalator on the way to the trains, I lost control. The suitcase tumbled down ahead of me, and I had to leap over it when I got to the bottom. Charlotte, who was following me, was not so lucky. She fell over the suitcase, face down.

Well, we both survived, but barely. Travel light was the lesson here. Unfortunate incidents aside, accommodation can be a determining factor in the success of a visit.

In terms of what to see and do, we wanted to revisit some favourites from previous visits, but also take in some possibilities. This determined our accommodations.

Upon investigation, we chose the Ruskin Hotel in Russell Square, directly facing the British Museum and only two blocks from the Tube. The $180 cost, which included a full English breakfast, might be considered steep elsewhere but not in pricey London.

Once we were settled in our hotel, we headed for the British Museum. The museum is huge and requires a full day to make the visit worthwhile.

Our goal was to once again view the majestic Elgin Marbles and the Rosetta Stone. Lord Elgin’s audacity in obtaining the Marbles, which formerly adorned the Parthenon in Athens, and transporting them to London remains one of the world’s most fascinating adventure tales for this history buff.

A related stop was the Tate Modern Gallery, which displays an outstanding collection of international art dating from 1500 to the present, with special attention to British artists from the Romantic Age, including Blake and Constable.

Our last museum stop was the National Gallery, situated at one of the busiest spots in London, Trafalgar Square, just off Piccadilly Circus. Such great works as Van Gogh’s Sunflowers and the Wilton Diptych are to be found here.

The entrance to all three of these great museums was free!

One of our favourite things to do is head to Westminster Bridge and adjacent Westminster Abbey.

Someone once advised me that a walk across the bridge is the best introduction to the major sights of London, including the aforementioned Abbey, as well as the Strand, Covent Garden, the Houses of Parliament, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and, of course, Big Ben. We began with the Abbey, entering the church that is one of the great French Gothic buildings, and the site of 38 coronations. We were fortunate to catch an Evensong service, a most moving event. On our way out, we stopped to admire the Coronation Chair, the Poet’s Corner; and the painted Rose Window, the largest of its kind.

As for Westminster Bridge, there is no sight so majestic, resplendent, or romantic. If you caught the recent romantic movie Last Chance Harvey, featuring Dustin Hoffman and Emma Thompson you will realize that a walk across the bridge is exactly what every senior couple should indulge in at least once.

While we were there, the Mayor’s Thames Festival was in full swing on the banks of the river, with thousands of revellers taking in the food stalls and outdoor cafés. The London Eye observation wheel beckoned, but at 10 pounds ($18) per person, we considered the price somewhat steep for us.

Later on, we headed for Covent Garden, which had changed drastically since our last visit. The 1840 market building is now the Piazza. We entered to find trendy shops, pubs and cafés and the hustle and bustle of young people drawn to such haunts. Over by St. Paul’s Church jugglers were performing for the crowd. We were told that the first English Punch and Judy show took place here in the 1600s.

Theatre was also on our agenda. Not far from our hotel was the theatre-goers’ Mecca, Leicester Square, where there is not one but several discount ticket outlets. At one of them we bought tickets for Billy Elliott The Musical at around $75 each, having heard that it was a big hit and heading for Broadway. Using our Oyster Pass, we then hopped on the Tube to go to the Victoria Palace Theatre, near Victoria Station. The crowds at this end presented a challenge. But we finally found the theatre.

Billy Elliott The Musical more than met our expectations. It is set in England’s northeast, and we were not quite prepared for some of the regional colloquialisms, or for the off-colour language. But the show showcases some of the most spectacular dance numbers we had ever seen, set to the music of Elton John.

A feel-good show, it recounts a boy’s dream of becoming a ballet dancer and his struggles to break out of his family’s chosen work for him as a coal miner.

An outlet of Garfunkle’s, one of England’s most affordable restaurant chains, was only a few steps from the theatre, and we had a bite there.

There are countless place to eat in London, most unfortunately unaffordable. However, we did discover a Turkish restaurant, Tas, close to our hotel, that offered authentic selections at reasonable prices.

Shopping in London requires diligence. Reasonable products can be found at Marks & Spencer. Then there is Harrods. It is a delight to walk through this extravagant department store and stare but not buy. We visited the fabulous Food Halls and stopped in at the Pizzeria, not only to sample a pizza but to gaze in awe and delight at the chef singing airs from The Barber of Seville while flipping pizza dough.

In London the Tube is the most convenient and economical means of travel. London Transport’s Oyster Card pass for the Tube (and the bus system) can be purchased for a day for five pounds ($9) or for a week.

We made ample use of the card. But as our early mishap demonstrated, it does have its hazards. The many escalators and lengthy corridors may only be suitable for seniors whose energy levels are still high. But isn’t that all of us? Or must we admit that it’s too much for us? Not this senior. Mind you, we were careful about how we proceeded – senior balance was constantly on our agenda.

Less than a week in London was not enough time to see everything we would have liked to, but it was enough for these weary seniors. We were rewarded for our caution – no more mishaps. Other London sights were saved a future visit.