International Destinations

Penang architecture reflects city’s multiculturalism

By Toni Dabbs

Photo by Toni Dabbs

Drivers and pedestrians stop to stare as a convoy of several dozen trishaws, each with a blue and white umbrella shielding its occupants from the tropical sun, snakes its way through the congested streets of Georgetown. Although such a large group of the little three-wheeled man-powered vehicles might be unusual, trishaws are a common means of touring this historic city's compact labyrinth of narrow lanes and alleys.

The oldest British settlement in Malaysia, Georgetown was founded in 1786, when Captain Francis Light persuaded the Sultan of Kedah to cede Pulau Penang (island of the Betel Nut) to the British East India Company as a place to refit its ships plying the waters between India and China. Opium and tea made trade with China extremely lucrative, so the English also needed a base from which to protect the merchant fleet.

The northeastern tip of the island was chosen for occupation and named in honour of the reigning British monarch, King George III. Strategically located near the entrance to the Straits of Malacca, the settlement developed over the next century into a major port for the increasing silk and spice trade. It remained under British rule until 1957, when Penang became one of the states of the newly formed Federation of Malaya, which became Malaysia in 1963.

Georgetown is still the administrative seat and the commercial hub of Penang, but it also is a living sampler of the different cultures that have influenced Malaysia as a whole: Malay, Sumatran, Javanese, Thai, Burmese, Chinese, Indian, Armenian and Eurasian. It has the largest collection of heritage buildings in South East Asia.

A good place to flag a trishaw and begin a tour of Georgetown is where the city itself began, at Fort Cornwallis. Originally a wooden stockade, it was reconstructed of stone by convict labour in 1804. Its arsenal includes a cannon called Seri Rambai, made by the Dutch in 1603, which was presented to the Sultan of Johor, looted by the Portuguese and dumped into the sea by pirates before coming into British possession.

Nearby are the Municipal Council buildings (the City Hall and the Town Hall), the Court Buildings and the State Museum, all classic examples of 19th century British Colonial architecture featuring arched windows and columned porticos. The State Museum houses a local history collection, while the City Hall serves as a venue for special exhibitions.

Streets with distinctly British names continue into the parts of Georgetown that have their roots in other lands. For these enclaves, the traditional focal point generally is a place of worship.

On Queen Street, saris are the fashion, and the aromas of incense and curry mingle in the air. Here is Sri Mariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in town, built in 1883. Its exterior is adorned with sculpted and painted figures of deities, and inside is a statue of Lord Subramanium, embellished with gold and silver, diamonds and emeralds.

On Cannon Street, a gateway between simple shophouses leads to an inner square paved with granite and dominated by the Leong San Tong (Dragon Mountain Hall) of the Khoo Kongsi (compound of the Khoo clan). Constructed in 1906 by master craftsmen from China, the temple features the finest materials and rich ornamentation.

The Khoos were among the wealthy Straits Chinese traders of 17th century Malacca and early Penang. When the temple was built, the compound was structured like a small village, with surrounding houses reserved for clan members. The village had its own government as well as educational, financial, welfare and social agencies.

The call of the muezzin to mid-day prayers can be heard from several historic mosques. The ochre-domed Kapitan Kling Mosque was financed in 1801 by Indian Muslim merchant Caudeer Mohudeen. The Acheen Street Mosque, with its unusual octagonal minaret, was built in 1820 on land donated by wealthy Sumatran trader Tengku Syed Hussain.

Close to the Acheen Street Mosque is the beautifully restored home of another wealthy Sumatran merchant. Syed Mohamed Alatas resided here (circa 1860 to 1875) with his first wife, a Malay of royal descent. His second wife was the daughter of Khoo Tiang Poh, head of the Khoo clan.

Chinese-Portuguese homes more than 100 years old line Love Lane and Stewart Lane. Long and low, some still retain heavy carved doors or mosaic tile walkways. In contrast are the stately Victorian mansions that stand along Northam Road, now called Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah. This is the road leading to two temples, Thai and Burmese, that face each other across Lorong Burma.

Wat Chayamangkalaram is a complex of elaborate and colourful Thai architecture. Large figures of mythical beings crowd its courtyard. At the centre is a temple sheltering a 108-foot-long reclining Buddha. Niches behind the statue hold urns containing ashes of devotees.

Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist Temple was the first Buddhist temple in Penang, built in 1805. The elegant structure is topped by a roof resembling layers of intricate gold lace. At the rear is a small garden, with a Bodhi tree and a wishing pond.

At the end of a day exploring the foreign influences found in Georgetown, visitors might want to take a short drive to Teluk Bahang, where they can experience the customs and cuisine of Malaysia at the Istana Theatre Restaurant. The hardwood building, based on designs of old Malay palaces, is decorated with handcarved panels and screens.

Appropriately costumed performers present traditional music and dances from throughout the country, while the audience dines on authentic Malay dishes.