International Destinations

Rick’s Café still entrancing visitors to Casablanca

By Mansoor Ladha

I was so intrigued with the movie Casablanca that I saw it four times in my younger days. So when enroute to Casablanca, Morocco on a tour recently, I was thrilled when our tour director announced that he was going to show this classic movie on the coach.

When in Casablanca, tourists must visit Rick’s Café, which is named after the famous café in the movie.

As you walk into the dimly lit restaurant, it is easy to imagine Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart having a drink together at the next table, while Sam (played by Dooley Wilson in the movie) plays the piano in the background.

Kathy Kriger opened Rick’s Cafe in 2004, tastefully recreating the film setting with a piano bar, balconies, brass lamps and so on. Visitors to Casablanca can experience a unique evening of music and good food at this world-class spot.

A monumental landmark in Casablanca is the King Hassan II Mosque. The mosque is the third largest in the world, with room for 25,000 worshippers. A further 80,000 can be accommodated in the mosque's adjoining grounds for a total of 105,000 worshippers present at any given time. The mosque’s minaret is the world’s tallest at 689 feet.

The mosque, designed by French architect Michel Pinseau, was completed in August 1993 at an estimated cost of $800 million. It displays strong Moorish influences and is reminiscent of the Alhambra in Spain.

The structure is built on reclaimed land, and almost half the surface of the mosque lies over the Atlantic Ocean. Part of its floor is glass so worshippers can kneel directly over the sea, a feature requested specifically by Morocco’s King Hassan II. Before building the mosque, the king is reported to have said: “I want to build this mosque on the water because God’s throne is on the water.”

Morocco has always been a crossroads between Africa, Europe and the Middle East. We entered the country on the ferry from Spain to Tangier, which was controlled for more than half of the 20th century by western powers.

The city has a cosmopolitan population and a vibrant nightlife. When we entered Tangier, our tour director informed me that on previous tours a journalist was interrogated heavily because he had clearly declared his profession in the entry form provided at the border. He advised me to mention something else as my profession. Following his advice, I wrote “chef” as my profession though except for making a boiled egg, I am lost in the kitchen.

When my turn came to see the immigration officer, I greeted him in Arabic: “Asalam alaikume.” He was pleased with my Arabic salutation and delighted to note that I was born in Zanzibar, Tanzania, which used to be an Arab sultanate.

However, a Malaysian woman in our group was not so lucky as she was told she needed a visa to enter Morocco. Before she left her country, she was told Malaysians did not need a visa.

So all 45 of us were delayed because of her. A senior immigration officer was summoned to deal with her case. After some negotiations and help from our Arab-speaking guide, the matter was resolved. The woman was asked to pay 430 dirhams (about $52). Out of this, 120 dirhams ($14) were the penalty for not having the visa and the rest was for “lubrication services,” or whatever you want to call it.

“I am the only one from a Muslim country,” the Malaysian woman said, “and this is the way a citizen from a Muslim nation is being treated by a Muslim country. Where is Muslim camaraderie?” she asked. She didn’t know if Malaysia had any diplomatic problems with Morocco.

The first thing one should do after one gets the visa at the border is to change one’s dollars to local currency. There are about three banks near the ferry where one can exchange one’s currency.

Except for Australians, that is. For some reason, Morocco doesn’t like Australian currency. So if you’re an Australian traveling to Morocco, beware. Take American or Canadian dollars, British pounds or Euros but not Australian dollars. They will not touch it.

Naguib, our tourist guide in Morocco, proudly typified the Morocco national ethic. Every Moroccan outwardly is a staunch believer in God, country and king.

Morocco is no democracy. However, although Moroccans have had tumultuous political domestic history with only restricted political rights allowed by their kings, monarchy would appear to be revered by the people.

From Marrakesh to Casablanca, one hears nothing but praise of King Hassan II (1929-1999) and his successor King Mohamed VI and the developments that they have made in the country for the benefit of the people.

Mohammed is an absolute monarch who is more interested in power than governance, though throughout the country there are plenty of housing projects under construction. The country has an excellent network of roads, making transportation between major cities easy and boosting tourism and industry. Inter-city buses and motorcoaches full of tourists are to be seen everywhere.

Friendly people, good food, excellent weather and a warm welcome await tourists from all over the world in Morocco. Hotels to suit every pocket, from five-star to budget, are easily found. Moroccans are used to foreigners and many speak several languages fluently. This is a country well worth a visit.